Margaux

Well, la-di-da... in no way does Margaux represent the level of continental dining to which I could possibly get accustomed. I'm a no-nonsense currywurst kind of a guy, but once in a blue moon, I will treat myself to an admittedly pricey experience when I'm abroad. Even if it means wearing my wrinkled Dockers with the expandable waist and my worn pair of Land's End All-Weather Mocs. This is as fancy-schmancy a place you could possibly experience in upper-crust Berlin just around the corner from the Brandenburg Gate, and chef Michael Hoffman has earned a Michelin star for his innovative creations, which are mostly fresh twists on high-end French cuisine. No currywurst served here, but I have to tell you that his concoctions run the gamut between heavenly and head-scratching.

I guess that's the way of all great chefs, n'est-ce pas? Coming into the restaurant was an exercise in self-consciousness as the maitre d' looked me up and down like I was a lost hobo. Regardless, I was seated at a large table for four hidden away in the back across from the only other solitary diner, a well-moneyed matron who was flirting with the much younger waiter. It's very elegant in there - onyx columns that are lit from within, black marble floors, gold-leaf ceilings, red velvet chairs, well-appointed tables... in other words, the works. The menu was a choice between either the Summer Kitchen 7-course dinner for 165 Euros (ka-ching!) or the 7-course Vegetable dinner for 125 Euros (ka-ching!). Good thing there wasn't a hole on my sock where I kept my change.

I have to admit I was somewhat amused that Hoffman was billed as both chef and gardener on the small menu. Nice that he gets his hands dirty. The extravaganza started with an amuse bouche on a big wooden block, a trio of potato chips that looked like Pringles with various toppings of sage, ginger and olive oil on top (see photo). Then came a pumpkin puree adorned with seaweed and a decorative dumpling with a pumpkin filling (see photo). After that was a celery trio with a dumpling on top of a carefully molded sancho pepper the highlight (see photo). I believe the next item was an odd broth of marinated cauliflower, which came accompanied by the bread with three different spreads molded in different shapes (see photo). Then the substantive dishes came in quick succession.

There was the Rainbow Trout with a Chutney of Kohlrabi & Apples and a Profiterole of Garden Herbs. Certainly masterful morsels at play here (see photo). This was followed by Bretonic Shellfish with Marinated Cauliflower & Tomatoes and Creamed Peas with a touch of Lemon (see photo). A lovely lightness was evident in this dish that made the subtlety of the flavors mesh together seamlessly. Next was a Poached Pollock with Steamed Turnips & Spinach Beets(with a strange pink foam not to my liking) followed by John Dory accompanied by a bevy of crispy vegetables and a cup of bouillon (see photos). Finally came the centerpiece - the Crispy Sauteed Sea Bass with Marinated Sorrel & Carrots, a Roasted Salad and a Sauce of Confit Vegetables (see photo). To experience such a variety of unique fish was an unprecedented treat.

There was a small break before the last items - dessert, of course. A Coulommiers Lait Cru plate with Fennel and Pepper (see photo) was refreshing followed by yet another amuse bouche, this one a creme fraiche with a tart cup of fruit juice of which I have no idea what it was (see photo). Then the main dessert came, a White Chocolate Souffle with Lavender, Olives, Mascarpone & Caramel served in a trio of creative executions (see photo). Before I could yell uncle, the waiter brought the last plate which contained candied macadamia nuts, macarons and a marshmallow (see photo). Needless to say, I was a tad full by the end of this feast, and I ended up closing the restaurant myself at nearly midnight. The staff could not have been kinder, and the evening was most memorable. No small feat.

FOOD - 5 stars...ah, so that's what a Michelin star tastes like
AMBIANCE - 4.5 stars...elegant but not ostentatious, on the coolish side
SERVICE - 4 stars...so attentive I kept checking to see if I had something up my nose
TOTAL - 5 stars...this must be one of Berlin's finest...ka-ching, ka-ching

Horrible! I've had a horrible birthday dinner there. The food is mainly tasteless ("cooked in mineral water", wow), the interior is kitschig. I stopped the menu in the middle and left for another restaurant. They wanted to do a follow-up which never happened. Don't go there.

I have taken friends and clients to Margaux, ostensibly THE top restaurant in Berlin (with 2 Michelin stars), and it has never been disappointing. There is absolutely no disputing that the decor and atmosphere exudes class, the maitre'd is suitably subservient, the general service is excellent and so is the wine list. The food is, well, perhaps a trifle experimental, and not what one would expect in a German restaurant, not even such a fine restaurant. But I liked it, especially the delicate (and totally transparent!) Badoit water sauce that graced a dish of fine rare beef. The chef does not skimp on ideas that entertain and that is a rare quality in Germany. There are many fine cooks in the country, but not many that dare to entertain and play with the food. Perhaps that can turn some people off, especially diners who expect sturdy hunks of meat and sizable portions. I don't know. Some of my guests were a little bemused but mostly they liked the place. And so do I, though one or two bills did make me wince a little, but that's more due to the wines than the menu.


But I have to say that the last couple of times I was there (last quarter 2007), the menu has become a trifle more staid, which is a pity, but I can understand why.

I asked the concierge of my hotel (Ritz Carlton) where to find a great vegetarian meal and got a table booked at Margaux. The vegetarian menu is advertised as a unique seven course vegetarian menu Voyage de Legumes, according to the concierge "one of the best you can enjoy in Germany". Unfortunately we have in London probably the best vegetarian restaurants and we are spoiled by good quality, so I found my special menu at Margaux pricey, I was expecting something more special because of the price. There was just something missing and I felt the food did not match with the reputation of this great restaurant.

We were a crowd of four people on a business/pleasure trip to Berlin. We had decided to give our bank account a real beating. Restaurant Margaux was recommended to us by the hotel (yes; we asked for a posh place...) The restaurant is certainly very posh, and fancy. I think I heard that this place has 2 or 3 stars in the Michelin-guide (but Im not sure). Having been to a Norwegian 2-star-restaurant (Bagatelle in Oslo) my expectations were HIGH. Unfortunately, they were not met. I found both the wine and the food to be quite boring. High level, of course, but boring nevertheless.. Good service.